You don’t need to go hungry or thirsty when walking at Durban’s Point Waterfront. There’s history, urban renewal. And tunnel vision. But not on the culinary front.

Steak, egg ‘n strips. Once upon a yesteryear it was what one did in Durban of a lunchtime. On occasions. If you hung out with a certain sort of male friend. Before censorship was replaced by political correctness. In another lifetime. When Smuggler’s Inn thrived, with visiting seamen spilling in off ships to party with locals, hookers and strippers. By and large more of a draw than the steak ‘n egg part of the three-way deal. All this at the old Alexandra Hotel, a celebrated dive way down on Point Road, now Mahatma Gandhi, that served a mean porterhouse too.

But now when I Google, there is very little about the Alexandra Hotel. Nothing worth linking to. So let me stop reminiscing and just say you’ll either remember Smuggies because you went there. Or because you refused to go there.

And it is now long gone. Physically at least.

But walking-tour guide, Alison Chadwick, mentions it and points out the derelict site where it once was, on her Point Walk, which I did…

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